Posted by Chuck Tribolet on December 31, 2001 at 05:25:14:
In Reply to: Where waves come from. posted by Jonah on December 30, 2001 at 21:42:03:
That's copyrighted material and should not have
been reproduced here. A link would have been
fine.
Another excellent resource is Willard Bascom,
Waves and Beaches, Anchor Books, 1980, ISBN
0-385-14844-5. Amazon.com lists it as "hard to
find", but it's worth a shot. Bascom did a lot
of the basic surveys of California beaches in the
late 1940's using a DUKW, which is a big
amphibious truck used by the military. The book
includes a picture of Bascom surfing the DUKW at
Carmel River State Beach on a day when I sure
wouldn't dive. He's standing up taking depth
measurements with a lead line. The book is worth
the price just for that picture.
Also see
http://www.garlic.com/~triblet/swell/Inet1XMP.html
Chuck